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Автор Freya Stark

THE VALLEYS OF THE ASSASSINS

Freya Stark,

from a pencil sketch by Dorothy Hawkslcy.

The Valleys of the Assassins and

Other Persian Travels

by

FREYA STARK

LONDON

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, W

First 'Edition

1934

To W. P . KER

In Loving Memory

CONTENTS

P A R T I . L U R I S T A N

P A G E

Preface

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

7

Chapter I. A FORTNIGHT IN N. W. LURISTAN

1931

13

Chapter II. Ti HIDDEN TREASURE 1932 . 60

The Coolies of Baghdad

. 60

The Treasure

. 62

Crossing the Frontier

. 67

Waterless Hills

73

The Law of Hospitality .

• 77

The Great Mountain

• 83

Night in Garau .

88

The Tribe at Home

• 93

The Defile of the Unbelievers .

. 103

The City of the Larti .

. n o

Tire Valley of the Hindiviini .

. 120

The Graves of the Beni Parwar

. 127

Capture

.

.

.

. • 133

A Mild Affair with Bandits . . 138

Return to Garau .

. 151

The Forests of Aftab

• 159

To the Capital of Pusht-i-Kuh

. 166

The Government of Pusht-i-Kuh

. 172

The Way to Mandali

.

178

The Gangir Valley

. 185

Finish in Baghdad

. 189

P A R T E . M A Z A N D E R A N

P A G E

Chapter III. A JOURNEY TO THE VALLEY OF

THE ASSASSINS 1930 - . 197

Chapter IV. THE ASSASSINS' CASTLE OF

LAMIASAR 1931 . . . 234

Chapter V. THE THRONE OF SOLOMON 1931 252

Sitt Zeinabars Tomb

252

A Doctor in Alamut

. 258

Life in the Village

. 265

Three Weddings

. 271

The Master of Flocks

. 280

The Watering Resort

. 285

The Throne of Solomon .

. 294

Shepherds from the fungle

• 303

Kalar Dasht . . . . . 309

The Site of Kalar .

• 317

Lahu

.

.

.

.

.

- 325

Night in the Chains Valley

. 329

The Squire of Bijeno

• 334

The Pass of Siolis into Talaghan . 338

The Upper Shah Rud .

• 345

To the Teheran Road .

- 351

• 357

PREFACE

AN IMAGINATIVE AUNT W H O , FOR MY NINTH BIRTHDAY, SENT A copy of the Arabian Nights, was, I suppose, the original cause of trouble.

Unfostered and unnoticed, the little flame so kindled fed secretly on dreams. Chance, such as the existence of a Syrian missionary near my home, nourished it; and Fate, with long months of illness and leisure, blew it to a blaze bright enough to light my w a y through labyrinths of Arabic, and eventually to land me on the coast of Syria at the end o f 1927.

Here, I thought, all difficulty was over: I had n o w but to look around me, to learn, and to enjoy.

A n d so it would have been had not those twin Virtues so fatal to the joie de vivre of our civilized West, the sense of responsibility and the illusion, dear to well-regulated minds, that every action must have a purpose—had not these virtues of Responsibility and Purpose met me at every step with the embarrassing enquiry: " Why are you here alone?" and:

" What do y o u intend to doi"

I may confess at once that I had never thought of w h y I came, far less of w h y I came alone: and as to what I was going to d o — I saw no cause to trouble about a thing so nebulous beforehand. My sense of responsibility was in effect deficient, and purpose non-existent. W h e n excessively badgered, the only explanation I could think of for being so unwantedly in Asia was an interest in Arabic grammar—a statement rarely accepted in that candid spirit in which I offered it to unconvinced enquirers.